5600km later and we have finally reached the Nordkapp [North Cape], the most northerly point on continental Europe. And what a journey it has been, filled with fun and challenges, epic scenery, a visit from a friend, ferries and bridges, crossing the Arctic Circle and experiencing 24 hour daylight and lots of wildlife, some unwelcome.

We left you in the Western fjords where we had spent three days parked in a campsite in beautiful Geiranger. We didn’t realise that this fjord acts a wind funnel, bringing warm and then cold gusts from over the waterfall behind where we camped. I was having a relaxing afternoon soaking up the sunshine and reading when I heard a loud bang. I didn’t think much of it until our neighbour came round the front of Tigín with the large sun window from the front of the camper. A gust of wind had blown it clear off. Though broken at the hinge thankfully the window itself was mostly intact and our lovely neighbours helped hubby to piece it back together and tape it in place. Moments later we were able to repay the favour as a gust took out the side window of their camper in the same manner.

in the coming days the repair worked quite well, but as we got into heavier rain we developed a major leak. Towels and pots to catch the worsening drips became a feature of the week with our recently arrived, very patient guest. In the larger town of Bodø, we called on spec, to a camper sales and repair centre. It was midday on Friday and the lovely people at the camper centre, although clearly busy, took Tigín into their care. They found a spot for us to sit in one of their showroom displays and made us coffee while we modelled and pre-warmed their camping chairs for customers. Two hours later with Tigín all sealed up we were on the road again. I am always overwhelmed by the kindness of strangers, but we have so often experienced it in our travels I don’t know why I am still surprised.

Having spent a lovely week, marvelling at the beautiful coastal scenery, as we island hopped North, on ferries, and amazing bridges and enjoying some quality time together with our friend, we had to say goodbye. We dropped her off at the airport in Narvik and began the final push north. The scenery changed dramatically in these last segments of the journey. Fjords gave way to small croft-like holdings wedged between the jagged mountain peaks and the sea. Fish racks, used for drying fish in a centuries old fashion are a feature of these coastal communities. We saw a farmer pushing an old style plough while his wife pulled it, it looked like back breaking work. Still stunningly beautiful it is green, lush, wild and windswept. The turquoise sea and the white sandy beaches, who knew that above the Arctic Circle and the Caribbean had so much in common.

The further north we went the more barren the landscape became. Vegetation struggles at these latitudes, grass is sparse and trees are stunted. The bedrock holds water so it is boggy and wet. And while it is beautiful in 24 hour daylight (polar days) and sunshine, one can’t but wonder what hardy souls live, work and go to school here, in the dark depths of Winter. Amazingly people here are outdoorsy. They love hiking, angling and hunting in the Summer and cross country skiing, biathlon (cross country skiing and target shooting) and dog sledding in the Winter. We spotted herds of reindeer with the next generation of Santa’s sleigh pullers, on still shaky legs, grazing on the sparse vegetation. They are smaller, whiter and a lot thinner than their cousins a little further south.

As if living in this harsh environment wasn’t challenging enough, they also have believe it or not a mosquito problem. I heard a joke years ago when we visited Alaska, that the state bird of Alaska was the mosquito, well their Norwegian cousins are their equal. Arctic mosquitos are vicious and the hunt in packs. Stand still for a second and they swarm. One encounter was enough, I stopped on a bike ride to check directions and came away moments later covered in bites, they even got me through my clothes. In a number of locations we stayed I was held captive in the camper as to venture outside was risking further sleepless, itchy nights. 

One week after Narvik and 730km later and we find ourselves at the very top of the continent, the North Cape, in a pea soup fog. Thankfully the sun came out for a few hours and we had beautiful clear blue skies with wisps of mist rolling through as we explored and marvelled as the then low lying fog blanketed the surrounding ocean below our perch atop the 307m cliffs. We are at at N71°10′21″ E25°47′04”,  just 2,103km from the North Pole, looking out over the point where the Norwegian Sea (part of the Atlantic Ocean) meets the Barents Sea (part of the Arctic Ocean). We spent a night hoping to witness the midnight sun at this iconic location, but unfortunately for the remainder of our time there the weather was totally socked in.

Our journey continues South now, as we make our way home over the coming weeks. This has been the trip of a lifetime and Norway has been an absolute joy, except for the mosquitoes.